Doc has been growing out this strain since around 2010. This species is a branching hammer with purple tentacles and light blue anchor tips. A great growing species and what used to be fairly common decades ago has been quite rare for quite sometime. We like to use this coral with many of our custom reef aquarium designs to keep the lineage going strong.
Euphyllias- commonly known as the hammer, frogspawn and torch corals. Euphyllia corals need plenty of clearance from other corals especially the torch corals. Their tentacles can reach out double and triple their size and sting anything within reach. Branching Euphyllias can grow very well doubling and even tripling in size within a year.
They are susceptible to certain pests and bacterial infections so quarantining is recommended. Flatworms can infest these corals and while may not kill it, they do cause irritation and are a chore to eradicate. Our corals will be 100% pest free of Euhpyllia flatworms guaranteed.
Troubleshootong: If the coral polyps are not opening and the other corals seem fine then it is most likely too much flow or someone is picking on it. Certain fish can single out one Euphyllia in the tank and constantly pick at it throughout the day while leaving all others alone.
Flatworm pests can infect certain LPS corals. Coral dipping helps. We like to use various coral dipping solutions or Melafix.
Care level: beginner to intermediate
Flow: medium high to medium low
PAR: 150-250, will handle up to 450nm with no issues
Original Location Range: Indonesia, Coral Triangle, South Pacific
Grown in our California coral farm providing zero impact corals
Water chemistry: Calcium 400-450, Magnesium 1350, KH 7-9.5, pH 8.1-8.4, Nitrates .01-10+, Phosphates .01-.1, salinity 1.026
Temperature Range: 74- 81 Fahrenheit
Feeding: these corals can be target or broadcast fed. They will feed on smaller soaked pellets and will do well without direct coral feedings if there is heavy fish feedings. Target feeding is always best and be sure your coral is taking in the food and not just sliming it off.
For more information on coral foods we like to use click here.
Dosing: Doc highly recommends automated dosing of Ca, Kh and other elements to provide ultimate stable water chemistry throughout the day. It is important there are no fluctuations especially with Kh/alkalinity. For more information on dosing and products click here.
We like to plant these corals in areas with moderate flow on a stable area.
Attachment: In many of our custom aquarium builds we like to use a fair amount of epoxy to set up the fragments. It is recommended to try and break off as much of the disk safe enough not to damage the skeletal branch of the coral. We do this by using coral bone cutters to clip the base. Add a small amount of coral glue to the underside of the branch. Mix up enough two part epoxy to create a small ¾” ball and dab it a few times into the glue to get it tacky then press and mold a nice pedestal base with a flat bottom in an upside down mushroom shape. Do not get any water on the epoxy before adding the coral glue. Add a few small dabs of reef glue to the flattened base dabbing the glue so it really sticks to the epoxy. Press the coral disk onto the desired location and press the epoxy flat onto the reef. Be sure the coral is fully secure, the coral should never fall off the reef. Most frags will grow quite large so be a little generous with the epoxy to withstand the weight of the future coral colony growth. The epoxy part can be skipped using only the extra thick reef glue gel. Be sure to rub a little reef glue onto the reef section and there is enough reef glue on the coral plug to set it securely.
Click here for our favorite epoxy and reef glues.